Find the quiet side of cruising Florida's Big Bend at Crystal River, home of the manatees.

On the Florida Gulf coast the two towering stacks of the Crystal River nuclear plant gave us a target on an otherwise desolate shoreline. We were cruising the river country of the Big Bend enjoying sunny skies and 70-degree weather in the middle of March. As we approached the river entrance we were pleasantly surprised by the expanse of undeveloped shoreline, a welcome reprieve from most other coastal Florida areas.

We followed the winding 9-mile channel lined with sandy marsh and towering trees and passed the channel leading to Twin Rivers Marina. We wanted to visit the town so we pushed on to Tom's Pier, the only marina near town with dockage for transients. The river leads to Kings Bay, a wide open lake fed by clear springs that combines with Gulf waters. Several boats were at anchor or on moorings and the shoreline was lined with waterfront cottages and stately homes.

The combination of both salt and fresh water and the creatures who thrive in them make Crystal River a popular destination for boaters as well as scuba divers and snorkelers. Much of the area is part of the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge, which supports the largest concentration of manatees in a natural spring area. Swimming with these gentle sea giants in safe, calm 72-degree water is big business in an otherwise citrus growing area.

We reserved a spot at Pets's Pier, nicely situated for dinghy trips and easy bike rides into town. We explored the caves and caverns on the jagged shoreline of Kings Bay in our dinghy and found the protected warm waters teaming with slow lumbering manatees, often gently nudging the side of our inflatable. These sea cows thrive in the protected warm waters and seem to enjoy the daily visitors who swim with them. Like the kayakers around us we all seemed to speak in whispers not wanting to disturb the quiet beauty. This was indeed the Nature Coast of Florida as the brochures boasted.

While dive boats were very visible on Kings Bay there were also several private and group charter fishing boats that left early on day trips for the Gulf, always returning with happy sunburned faces. The marina ramp stayed busy with locals launching their skiffs, john boats and airboats. When Miss Michelle came in for fuel we asked about the handsome salty blue and red tug. It was a 1937 U.S. Navy harbor launch converted to a cruising boat its owners used for fishing.

When strong east winds picked up we decided to stay a few days so we got into tourist-mode. In the morning we'd ride our bikes to find a newspaper then head to Jones Restaurant for breakfast. On our way back to the marina we pedaled through different neighborhoods, mostly older ones with tree-lined streets and a nice mix of homes. Or we'd take bike paths and quiet streets that led to shopping and grocery stores.

We ventured further to explore a large raised deck on the north shore of the river that we noticed when we were coming up river. We read it was part of an archeological state park with Paleo period ceremonial Indian mounds. Some 2,500 years later the site was developed by Native Americans who settled on the shores of the river leaving many artifacts for discovery. The moss-shrouded trees hung over paths and walkways making us feel we were light years away from the real world.

Around 4 o'clock in the afternoon activities picked up at the fishing table and since we were tied to the face dock we had a ringside seat. The anglers drank cold beer cleaning their catch while pelicans and tarpon crowded the waters waiting for scraps.

Highway 19, an easy ride from the marina is the main drag of Crystal River and there isn't much we couldn't find. One of our favorites was Cody's Original Roadhouse with tubs of roasted peanuts on the table and a menu that was hard to beat. We dinghied to Crackers, a nice seafood spot in town and the Ale House overlooking one of the springs.

The low-key laid-back atmosphere of Crystal River made it a peaceful place to layover where we saw a quieter more gentle side of Florida living. The small river town knows how to play to its audience of nature and water lovers and it does so in an unimposing and inviting way.

Resources:

NOAA Charts 11400, 11409

Crystal River FL Visitor Information www.crystalriverflorida.com