How to prepare for a safe passage on the Intracoastal Waterway

The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) from Norfolk VA to Miami FL is a 1,095 mile system of navigable rivers, sounds, land cuts, ocean inlets and coastal waters connected together. Scenery changes from remote sea islands to clusters of seaside homes to miles of lush forests, marshlands and wilderness. Small harbor towns and waterfront cities offer boaters a range of marinas, marine services and boatyards, some in remote locations, others hugging the shores of popular boating centers. Anchorages along the way off snug gunkholes that offer protection from the wind and waterway traffic.

All along the ICW, affectionately known as the Ditch, you'll see herons, egrets and pelicans. When you near an inlet you'll be joined by dolphins swimming in your bow wake. You'll see everything from kayaks to cruise liners and tenders to tugboats pushing barges. At inlets you'll see mega-fishing rigs and commercial boats heading in and out to sea. Some 14,000 boaters use the ICW a year including perennial snowbirds headed South in the Fall and returning North in the Spring. And we've been happy to be part of them. We've made 12 waterway trips and each one has been an adventure. To help you make your first ICW cruise enjoyable here's our best advice and suggestions from delivery captains and marina operators.

Planning Your Trip

Yacht delivery crews run the waterway in record speed but cruisers make the trip in as much time as their schedule permits. To come up with an itinerary our best advice is to determine how fast you run and how many hours you want to be underway. For example, if you run at 10 knots for 7 hours you'll do about 70 nautical miles a day. The ICW is measured in statute miles which are 15% shorter than nautical miles so a 10 knot boat actually travels at 11.5 mph. So it's realistic to plan a 70-mile run realistic even with bridge delays and some adverse current

If you're destination is the New River in Fort Lauderdale at Mile 1065, divide the distance of 1065 miles by 70 and you'll come up with about 15 days of running. But that doesn't allow for bad weather that keeps you at the dock and layover days to see the many harbor towns along the way. And it doesn't take into account the time gained or lost for having the current with or against you, but it's a ballpark idea of how long it will take.

Fuel is readily available in most places on the ICW, but in some areas of remote Georgia you'll find it spotty. Know you boat's range with a safety margin for fuel. After a couple of days running you can gauge how long your water supply lasts and when holding tank need to be emptied. All marinas have water but you will find some with the pump out facilities, not working so Iit pays to plan ahead to have all systems aboard working.

To prepare for each day's run use a waterway cruising guide and chart book to decide how far you want to go, and where you want to stop. The chartbook and cruising guides for the ICW identify bridges, ranges, marinas, anchorages, towns, virtually everything of interest, by its mileage location. Anticipate delays and factor some into your schedule. For example, when the U.S. Marines at Camp LeJeune in North Carolina are practicing at their firing range between Miles 235 and 239 ICW traffic comes to a halt. Further on at Mile 338 the infamous pontoon bridge at Sunset Beach has been known to get stuck at low tide and not be operational until the tide comes in. Then in Florida you'll go through several "Manatee Zones" where the running speed is lowered.

The best advice we ever got was to be flexible and use the weather as our guide. Make miles when the forecast calls for fair winds and mild temperatures, and stay put when the wind gods howl and rain demons pour.

Day to day it's a good idea to know the time for high and low tide for the waters you're cruising, keep your VHF scanning channels channel 16, 13 and 9 and know these pithy little facts about your boat:

* its overall height which determines if you can get under a bridge or have to open it and know

* its depth, length, beam and power source (30 or 50 amp requirements) for reserving a marina slip

To make your ICW cruise a memorable and stress-free adventure -- whether headed South or North -- here's our best advice.

Using a GPS and Chart Plotter on the ICW

Even though it's pretty hard to get lost on the ICW a GPS equipped with a chart plotter is an important tool to have aboard. The actual ICW channel shifts around so the chart plotter won't keep you off the bottom, but it's great at displaying what's ahead. The "course up" or "plot up" mode is the most useful to display the chart because it is easier to read the chart if it corresponds with what you see ahead of the boat. In "North up" mode you will be traveling down the plotter display on a trip south and must do the mental gymnastics of changing right to left. Just follow the magenta line supposedly in the center of the channel and you'll be fine.

Another helpful feature of a plotter is the ability to place its cursor on any aid to navigation and read its distance and bearing from the boat. This makes is easier to navigate when you are crossing a river or entering a sound where the next marker may be a long way off and easily confused with several other aids on the horizon. Make sure to have the CDs for your charts and navigation software in case there is a computer problem.

The waterway turns and twists so making routes is time consuming and won't help much. On the other hand a quick route drawn between the boat and an upcoming bridge can help you estimate your ETA at the bridge.

Communications

A good VHF radio is the most valuable piece of safety equipment you have aboard the boat. Today a cell phone is the backbone of communication along the ICW. There are very few areas where there is not service and with the proper software most phones can be connected to a laptop computer and receive email. Email is the standard communication mode for many cruisers and most marinas offer a phone jack to connect a computer to the Internet, many now offer a wireless Internet connection. You'll notice WIFI is listed as one of their key features.

Water Depth

When the waterway was first established the channels were dredged to a controlling depth of 12-feet from Norfolk to Fort Pierce, FL, 10 feet from Fort Pierce to Miami and 6 feet in the Dismal Swamp. Today budget constraints within the Corp of Engineers have resulted in drastic cuts in maintenance dredging and many stretches of the ICW have shoaled. Avoid traveling through these sections at low tide and always ask marina operators and local boaters about shoaling reports. There's nothing more accurate than current local knowledge.

Aids to Navigation

The U. S. Coast Guard and Army Corps of Engineers maintain a uniform system of aids to navigation that consists of lighthouses and large lighted buoys backed up by smaller aids like green buoys called cans and red buoys called nuns. Cans are cylindrical shaped with a flat top, nuns have a tapered cone shape. In addition, green square and red triangular shape day markers (many are lighted) line the ICW channel.

Red, Right, Returning - Not Always on the ICW

Entering a harbor from the sea red markers are kept to starboard, green markers to port. The saying "red, right, returning" helps you remember on which side to pass a marker. When leaving a harbor or going down a channel towards the sea it's the reverse and red aids are on the left and green are on the right.

There are of course exceptions and the ICW is one of them. The waterway parallels the Atlantic Ocean so traveling the waterway you are never actually returning from or going to sea. For the length of the waterway you'll find red markers with even numbers on the west side of the channel and green markers with odd numbers on the east. So heading south red markers are on the right, green on the left and going North it's the reverse.

You can easily be confused when the ICW joins or crosses another channel or waterway and adapts their aids. For example, heading south on the ICW in North Carolina the ICW channel enters the Cape Fear River. As you leave Snows Cut at Carolina Beach, the red ICW marker moves to the left side of the river channel because you are traveling toward the sea. As soon as you reenter the ICW channel further south at Southport the reds are back on the right. You'll figure out these questionable areas if you study the chart before a day's run to anticipate the conditions.

Even if you have a chart plotter and GPS refer to the ICW chartbook to get a big picture of the area you're navigating. Often when you see a marker on the chart it becomes clear on which side to pass. Except for mid-channel aids that you can safely pass on either side, other aids are placed to warn you away from danger, which usually lies between the mark and shore. Where shoaling occurs you'll find temporary buoys marked with a letter. For example, if shoaling results in shallow water at green marker "3" you may see a smaller "3A" buoy in the water that directs you to deeper water. You'll also find temporary buoys used where a marker has been destroyed; it's basically a place holder until a replacement can be installed. Occasionally you'll see ICW mile markers in 5-mile increments -- white sign posts with black lettering -- mostly maintained in North Carolina, but spotty everywhere else.

Staying in the Channel

As you make your way through various situations on the ICW you'll gain confidence. In tricky conditions use these techniques.

Straight runs. On long straight sections where you can see a string of red and green markers ahead of you choose the red or green side of the channel. For example, going south choose the red side and instead of steering toward the next marker, steer for one three or four ahead of you. This tactic will keep you on a straight line instead of zigzagging back and forth between red to green markers.

Bends and curves. When traveling along a winding section with curves and bends look at the chart to see where the deeper water lies; notice which aids are on the edge of the channel and which ones may be in shoal waters. Shallow water usually extends into the channel from the inside of the turn, deeper water is usually found on the outside of the bend.

Strong current. In some stretches of the ICW strong currents cross the channel and can push a boat out of the channel and aground. The current is not always apparent because the marker you are steering for will appear to be on your bow as the boat is pushed out of the channel.

Ranges are markers designed to keep commercial vessels in the channel and are set up in particularly difficult sections of waterways. These navigation aids, usually painted in matching vertical stripes, are a set of a front and rear markers. Captain Geoff Holmes who frequently runs the ICW says, "Just stay on the range and line up the markers." By aligning the stripes you know if the boat is in the channel or not. For example, if the front range marker begins to appear to move to the right or starboard, the boat is drifting to the left side of the channel. To get back in the channel's center, steer to starboard until the marks are again aligned.

To remain in a channel you may have to steer the boat several degrees to starboard to compensate for the current. If you looked at the boat from behind it would be going straight down the channel, but the bow would be pointed a bit up current. This is called "crabbing" across the current probably because a crab can move forward while facing sideways.

Strong current at inlets. At ocean inlets the channels shift and ranges are not practical. In this situation the best way to tell if the current is setting your boat is to look back at the mark you just passed. Your boat should follow an imaginary line between the front and back markers, if the current begins to push the boat out of the channel the rear marker will be out of alignment. Use your radar along with eyeballing the marker behind you. Set one of the electronic bearing lines (EBL) to point directly astern. The EBL and the heading marker that points directly ahead create a line down the center of the display. The boat is being set if as you cross an inlet the EBL moves out of alignment with the marker you passed.

Running before dawn It's not a good idea to be underway in the dark on the ICW. But with the short days of Fall sometimes it's necessary so we leave early knowing the sun will come up. With two good spotlights finding the day markers is possible. One of us scans ahead to find the markers down the channel while the other light is directed towards the marker the helmsman is steering for.

Going Aground

There are two categories of cruisers on the ICW, those that have gone aground and those that are about to. Because of shoaling, wide tidal ranges and just plain operator inattention it's not difficult to join the group that has been there and done that. If you meandered out of the channel and ran aground or nudged a sandbar you can probably power off by backing up immediately. Your wake may lift the boat enough to free you. If not, wait for a passing boat and use its wake to advantage by backing off as soon as the wake moves the boat. If the boat won't move you are probably stuck and require help. Call a boat towing service especially if you're in a tidal area and the tide is falling. If it's rising you can wait and see if the tide lifts you off. You won't be sorry if you have unlimited towing insurance offered by Boat US and Sea Tow, it's money well spent.

Passing and Being Passed

Even when traffic is low on the ICW cruising boats are continually passing and being passed by other boaters and commercial traffic. When you're in open waters like a sound or wide river it isn't a big deal, but in a narrow channel it's a different story. In a confined passage boats are close together and proper technique makes all the difference. Remember: The boat being passed has the right of way. And Slow down, way down.

Passing a Boat

When overtaking a boat always tell them you want to slip on by. Hail the boat on the VHF radio or give a horn signal to alert the skipper: One toot for a starboard pass; two for port. You don't have to slow down until you are close, then go as slow as the other boat allows. When it's safe to move your boat in front of the boat accelerate to cruising speed.

When you're passing a tug or commercial vessel head on Captain Frank Herbert, who travels the ICW regularly on the Cambridge Lady, suggests calling to ask if they prefer you pass on one side or the other. "His rig is less maneuverable and has a deeper draft so I give him the option. That way we both know each others intentions."

Dredges are a common operation on the ICW and passing them can be dicey if they're in a narrow cut. "When we come to a working dredge," says Herbert "I call them to confirm which side the operator wants me to pass." When there's no response Herbert says he passes on the side of the dredge displaying the two vertical diamond-shapes, the signal displayed for safe passage.



Being Passed

When you are being passed, slow down when the overtaking boat is close astern so it can get past you. Cut the throttle and come to idle speed. After the boat safely passes, move behind the boat before it accelerates away and creates a large wake.







Docking

In the low country of the South Carolina and Georgia with a 6-7-foot tide and strong current running docking can be a challenge so swallow your pride and ask for help. In Beaufort SC at Port Royal Landing Marina manager Larry Hines says, "Don't be bashful, ask the dockmaster to walk you through the best way to approach the dock." This gives you a heads up on which side to rig dock lines and fenders.

Alfred Battey, operations manager at Golden Isles Marina near St. Simons Island GA says, "We tell them to use the current to their advantage and give them more control of their boat by bowing into it. We tell them to hang their fenders vertically so they're about 8-10 inches above the water to match our fender system." They take a bow line first to secure the boat and then a stern line, but if the boat has a bow thruster and can keep the boat on the dock they'll take a spring line instead of a bow.

An aft spring line secured to a cleat roughly midway between the bow and the stern can be a big help docking if you're short-handed. Idle the engine, pass the line to the dockhand, and after its secure shift into forward with the helm turned hard over away from the dock and the boat will move against it and stay there as long as the gear is in forward. Then you can secure a bow and stern line.

Docks and slips that parallel the current flow are the easiest to approach because you know what you're dealing with. Remember facing a 1/2 knot current the boat must be moving forward through the water at least a 1/2 knot to maintain steerage. Moving with the current you must be going backwards at least a 1/2 knot to remain in the same spot over the bottom.

Anchoring and Moorings

There are countless anchorages along the ICW. In the northern stretch you can use one anchor with enough chain to give you plenty of scope to handle the range of tide. If you anchor in areas where the bottom may be foul with old tree stumps like on the Waccamaw River, use a trip line float on the anchor line.

In narrow creeks with strong tides and current use two anchors or a Bahamian mooring.to cut down the swing of the boat, while allowing it to move 180 degrees and face the current. Lower the up current anchor first, then let out twice the scope needed and drift back and drop a second anchor. Pull in the first anchor line while paying out the line to the stern anchor until the boat is between them. Set the stern anchor by pulling its rode tight and then let out about 20 feet of extra line for each anchor so the boat has swinging room and secure them both on the bow.

To prevent an anchor line from getting tangled on a prop or rudder when it swings use an anchor sentinel with a light weight. We use a large zinc to make sure the line that's not under tension goes directly to the bottom and can't snag the running gear.

Vero Beach M 951, a popular destination in Florida has a mooring field, where you're assigned a mooring ball number. Approach it heading into the wind or current and pick up the pendant with a boat hook. The pennant, sometimes slimy with marine growth, has an eye spice to put over a bow cleat to secure the boat. If you have a high bow it's easier to pick up the pendant from the stern or swim platform and then carry the pendant to the bow as the boat backs away.

Bridges

Know the maximum height of your boat including all antennas and other objects that can be lowered also know the boat's height with all the antennas and fishing gear down. Check the bridge heights in the cruising guides and chartbook to know if you require an opening. Those opening time restrictions are usually on the hour, half hour or quarter hour. Depending on the distance between bridges and your running speed you may speed up or slow down to time your arrival to the scheduled opening.

Bridge operators are not required to open if a boat's antenna or rigging can be lowered, but most of them will if your boat's fixed rigging requires one. Don't request an opening especially in Florida if you can fit under the bridge with you high gear down. If you're unsure, confirm the fixed height as you approach using your binoculars to read the tide board posted at the opening span that indicates the height from the center of the span to the water level. If there's an arched opening it may indicate there's a few feet more.

Bridge tenders in Virginia, North Carolina, and Georgia monitor VHF channel 13. In South Carolina and Florida they use channel 9. They are professionals who have perfected their art to a science so be courteous and they'll be the same in kind. Call the bridge tender on the specified channel and use language like "We're a southbound trawler HIGH LIFE requesting your next opening" and they usually are accommodating.

At a bridge with restricted openings you may get lucky if a commercial vessel (which bridges open for at any time) arrives and you can scoot in behind. That's one good reason to arrive early, for an opening.

The downside of an early arrival is maneuvering in a confined area often with other boats. You can circle around facing the current and maintain position by idling the engine and shift into forward long enough to keep moving through the water, but not faster than the current. With a following current turn around, face the current and move slowly away from the bridge. Don't drift too close to the bridge because the current gets stronger as it runs under the bridge.

When there are boats waiting on both sides of a bridge Inland Rules of the Road apply so the boats traveling with the current has the right of way.

Locks

Locks on the Dismal Swamp Canal and at Great Bridge on the Virginia Cut (and on Okechobbeee Waterway if you're going to the west coast of Florida from Stuart to Fort Myers) operate in the same way.

When you approach the lock you'll see an Arrival Point with instructions to wait for a green light to proceed into the lock. If the gates are closed you have to wait for the lock to empty. Call the lockmaster on VHF channel 13 and request to lock through.


Ask if there are lines in the lock or if you use your own and which side of the lock to tie to so you know where to hang fenders.

A green light goes on, the lock opens and the lockmaster tells you to enter. Have someone on the bow and stern to pick up a line from the lock wall or secure one from the boat. On our boat one of us is on the bow and the helmsman goes to the stern after coming to a stop. When all the boats in a lock and secured, the gates are closed. Water from the upper section of the lock floods into the lock raising all the boats inside it until the water level in the lock matches the upper level water. As the water raises in the lock chamber you adjust the lines. The gates at the other end open and the lock master signals that it's safe to leave the lock. The reverse happens when the lock is going down.

Alternate Routes

Dismal Swamp or Virginia Cut

Just beyond Norfolk at mile 7 you have the choice of taking the Dismal Swamp Canal or the Virginia Cut, both leading to Albermarle Sound. Surveyed by a young George Washington the Dismal Swamp is steeped in history. It traverses a land cut, river and densely forested shorelines, two locks and ends at the charming harbor town of Elizabeth City famous for its hospitality to boaters. The water depth can be shallow especially during periods of low rainfall. The Virginia Cut is shorter in distance and deeper and more traveled and has a lock and marinas at Great Bridge and Coinjock.

Outside vs. Inside

The ICW parallels the Atlantic east coast so there are many good ocean inlets (and some requiring local knowledge) to run outside. But remember that while it may appear an ocean run is shorter than the waterway sometimes when you add up the miles out to a sea buoy and then back in can be a longer distance than the waterway. However, if sea and weather conditions are good a run outside especially in a fast boat is a nice escape from a slower passage on the ICW.

Make your decision to run outside or stay inside right before you leave, says Captain Kevin Hartman, who delivers boats up and down the ICW. "Check the weather the night before, but always recheck the weather conditions in the morning because forecasts change." Always have enough fuel and a contingency plan, he suggests. "If you're going outside make sure there's an inlet between your origination and destination where you can duck into if conditions change." Hartman says some of the better inlets on the coast are Beaufort Inlet, Cape Fear River and Charleston.